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Birding in and around the East Usambaras, 
north-east Tanzania 


Tom Evans", Alan Tye’, Norbert Cordeiro’ and Nathalie Seddon‘ 


anzania is one of the best birding countries in 

Africa, and the East Usambara mountains one of 
its ornithological gems. They lie in the north-east, 
within sight of the Indian Ocean and 50 km from the 
Kenyan border. Despite severe deforestation they 
retain evergreen forests of outstanding importance 
and great beauty. Two Endemic Bird Areas (EBAs) 
meet here - the montane forests of the ‘Eastern Arc’ 
and the lowland or ‘Coastal’ forests’. Recent articles in 
Bull. ABC have covered birding elsewhere in the 
Eastern Arc? and Coastal forests? but the East Usambaras 
are perhaps unique in offering such an array of speci- 
alities from both EBAs. 









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Arusha UN 
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X^ 
Mkomazi ^s, 


Sam 
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e e 1 
Kisiwani 
















Ngezi (^—. 
Forest X42 


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Zanzibar N 
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To Dar-es-Salaam 
0 60 


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Map 1. Birding areas in Tanzania 


The Usambaras actually comprise two ranges, 
separated by the deep, semi-arid Lwengera Valley. 
The East Usambaras, the focus of this article, are one 
of the most important bird areas in Africa. Nine glo- 
bally threatened species top the bill. One, the 
Usambara Eagle Owl Bubo (poensis) vosseleri, was 
thought endemic to the East and West Usambaras 


116 — Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2 


until its recent discovery further south, in the Ulugurus*". 
The neighbouring West Usambaras are also important 
forthreatened birds (and have their own endemic, the 
Usambara Ground Robin Sheppardia montana), 
but are discussed only briefly here. 

The East Usambaras have a long ornithological 
history, starting with German collectors before World 
War I, one of whom, Julius Vosseler, procured the first 
Usambara Eagle Owl. Reg Moreau lived here in the 
1930s and 1940s, carrying out much ground-breaking 
research from Amani. Major surveys, led by Simon 
Stuart, were undertaken in the late 1970s and early 
1980s", and followed by various teams in the 
1990s! 25^, Few other ornithologists have lived in 
the area; the tour company BirdQuest has visited in 
recent years and a trip report was recently produced 
by a solo visiting birder”. Despite earlier work, new 
discoveries continue: Sokoke Scops Owl Otus 
ireneae, East Coast Akalat Sheppardia gunningi 
and Swynnerton’s Robin  Swynnertonia 
swynnertoni were found in 1990-92*' and in 1994 the 
endemic Usambara Weaver Ploceus olivaceiceps 
nicolli was rediscovered after 50 years’. 

Few birdwatchers reach the area, which provides 
logistical challenges in comparison with the popular 
Tanzanian national parks or Arabuko-Sokoke in 
Kenya. Nonetheless, the moderately intrepid visitor 
can expect to see some superb birds amongst truly 
beautiful scenery, always with the possibility of mak- 
ing another major discovery. 


Geography 

The East Usambaras are in Tanga Region and include 
the Amani hills at 800-1,200 m, a series of outlying 
peaks to the east and north (the highest, Mt. Nilo, 
reaches 1,504 m) and wide valleys down to 130 m. 
Forest once reached the surrounding plains, but this 
has virtually all been cleared. 

Annual rainfall at Amani is c1,900 mm, rather less 
in the foothills, with moderate amounts in every month. 
The most difficult periods to visit are during the short 
and long rains. These traditionally fall in October- 
November and March-May respectively, but the 
timing varies from year to year. The July-September 
period is relatively cool and dry and is perhaps the 
most pleasant time to visit. It is also thought to be the 


Birding tbe East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 





1 Maramba 


Mtapwa Forest 


To Korogwe e 4 a 


Kwamgumi To Tanga 


Semdoe Segoma 


Amani@ 
(see Fig 3) 
To Tanga 


eel 
QV Muheza 


To Pangani 


Í 0 
To Dar / Arusha km 





Map 2. Routes in the East Usambaras 


period of least breeding activity, but nesting birds are 
easy to find in any month. Many submontane species 
(eg White-starred Robin Pogonocichla stellata, 
Black-fronted Bush-Shrike Malaconotus nigrifrons 
and Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo Cercococcyx 
montanus) are partial altitudinal migrants, and can 
be seen even at the lowest altitudes at this time of 
year, whilst some lowland breeders visit the 
submontane areas only in the warm season. 

The birder must visit both lowland (especially 
below 500 m) and submontane areas (above 800 m) to 
find the full range of forest species. True montane 
forests are found above 1,200 m on Mt. Nilo. These 
three habitats are described below. Although many 
lowland species occur only below c400 m, the low- 
land/submontane boundary is not sharp, with a broad 
overlap between 500-900 m. The least disturbed for- 
ests appear to support the highest densities of some 
key species (eg Usambara Eagle Owl, Sokoke Scops 
Owl, Swynnerton's Robin and Dappled Moun- 
tain Robin Modulatrix orostrutbus) but most also 
occur in degraded forest, which also has its own 
specialities. For instance, the invasive, bamboo-like 
grass Olyra latifolia thrives in disturbed areas and is a 
favourite food of the striking Red-headed Bluebill 
Spermopbaga ruficapilla. 


Access 

The nearest big town is Tanga on the coast. There isa 
small airport, with regular flights to Dar-es-Salaam, 
Pemba and Zanzibar but no international facilities. 
The foreign visitor has to fly in to Dar, Kilimanjaro, 
Zanzibar or Mombasa. Buses are regular between 
Tanga and Dar, Arusha (near Kilimanjaro) and Mom- 
basa and there is a twice-weekly train from Moshi 
(also near Kilimanjaro) and Dar. If travelling by bus on 
the Dar-Tanga, Arusha-Tanga or Mombasa-Tanga- 
Dar route, you pass through Muheza (a change in 
Tanga may be necessary if coming from Mombasa), 
from where a well signposted side road leads to 
Amani. In Muheza catch one of the daily Tanga- 
Amani or Tanga-Bulwa minibuses. Hitching may be 
better: wait at the line of shops just before the railway 
crossing on the Amani road. If schedules force an 
overnight in Muheza (almost certain, if coming from 
Arusha or Mombasa), it may be better to alight in 
Tanga and catch the Tanga-Muheza-Amani/Bulwa 
minibus next day. The Muheza-Amani road offers a 
good chance to see Yellow Baboons Papio 
cyanocepbalus and Blue Monkeys Cercopitbecus 
mitis en route. The Bulwa service branches off the 
road to Amani one km before Amani. 

Maramba and Bombo Maji Moto, small towns at 
the foot of the mountains further north, are served by 
frequent buses from Tanga on a reasonable road. A 
few dirt roads served by ancient Land Rover bush taxis 
run from there into the northern valleys. Reaching 
sites off these bus routes will require either long 
walks, a great deal of patience waiting for infrequent 
vehicles to hitch with, or your own transport. Some 
roads are challenging even for 4WD vehicles, and 
become impassable during rains. Cars can be hired in 
Arusha or Dar-es-Salaam, but 4WD vehicles (essen- 
tial) are very expensive and of dubious reliability, and 
most companies insist on providing a driver. 


Permission 

Most forests belong either to the Government (Forest 
Reserves) or tea estates and visitors must obtain per- 
mission to enter. Many tea estate forests will be 
incorporated in the new Amani Nature Reserve, and 
permission for visiting both Forest Reserves and tea 
estate property should thus be sought from the Tanga 
Region Catchment Forest Office, and from the rel- 
evant local Catchment Forest Offices. The local 
offices can be contacted from the Tanga office by 
radio as follows: Kisiwani (for Amani Botanical 
Gardens, Amani East, Amani-West, Amani-Sigi and 
the Bulwa tea estate forests); Kwamkoro (for 





Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 


Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2 - 117 


Kwamkoro, Monga and Ndola); Longuza (for Semdoe 
and Kambai), Maramba (for Mtai and Kwamgumi) 
and Kilanga Ngua (for Mt. Nilo). All of the local 
Catchment Forest Offices are well signposted. For 
Kwamgumi, it is also necessary to get permission 
from Kwamtili Cocoa Estate office, since you will 
need to pass through the cocoa plantation and 
possibly to camp in it. 


Guide books 


The Tanga office has an invaluable guide to trails and 
drives in the Amani area, which should also be avail- 
able from the Kisiwani and Amani Guest Houses (see 
below). A guide book to the East Usambaras is in 
preparation and should be ready by the end of 1997. 
Visitors to the Tanga office can also use their library, 
which includes much recent information on the biol- 
ogy of the East Usambaras. 


Accommodation 

Most people recommend avoiding the cheapest ac- 
commodation around the bus station in Tanga. There 
are some better cheap hotels, including the Planters 
and the Bandarini, near the market square. The 
Bandarini is more pleasant and offers mosquito nets 
and a sea view. More luxurious and expensive hotels 
with air-conditioning, include the Marina (central), 
Phoenix (next to Uhuru Park) and, on Ras Kazone 
(the headland running east from Tanga), the Inn by 
the Sea, Makonde Beach Hotel and Panori. The last 
has the best menu. 

In Muheza, the basic Ambassador Hotel on the 
main road is the best of a rather limited selection. In 
Maramba the Mlinga Guest House is recommended. 
Otherwise take your pick from various cheap and 
simple guest houses (but don’t let the frequent ‘hoteli’ 
signs fool you as this means 'restaurant ). In Amani, 
there is a guest house run by the Amani Medical 
Research Centre (AMRC). The AMRC guest house is 
comfortable and serves food, but prices are high 
(around US$ 30 per person per night) unless you are 
a Tanzanian citizen, have a residence permit, or busi- 
ness with the medical station. It is sometimes full, so 
itis wise to book ahead by letter. Camping on the lawn 
is permitted fora small fee. There is also a guest house 
at Bulwa run by the East Usambara Tea Company. 
Similar conditions apply as at Amani. A new guest 
house will open during 1997 at the Amani Nature 
Reserve Information Centre near Kisiwani: bookings 
should be made via the East Usambaras Catchment 
Forest Project in Tanga but tariffs have not been 
finalised. This will be an ideal base for access to both 
submontane forest around Amani and lowland forest 


118 — Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2 


around Kisiwani, all within the Nature Reserve. 

Elsewhere, it will be necessary to camp or arrange 
to stay with families in villages near the forest. These 
are quite remote and visitors, while politely and hos- 
pitably received, may be viewed with some concern. 
Knowledge of Swahili would of enormous use in 
explaining who you are and what you want to do. It 
is vital to ask permission from the Village Chairman or 
his/her representative when you arrive. You should 
also make yourself known to the local Forest Officer. 
A few semi-official camp sites are available. Birdquest 
and bird researchers have camped ona site belonging 
to the Karimjee tea estates at Monga. Another site 
owned by the tea estates is at a former tea nursery on 
the road between Kwamkoro and Monga near some 
excellent submontane forest. Three more camp sites 
are scheduled for development as part of the Amani 
Nature Reserve facilities: at Kisiwani, near the new 
guest house and two on the forest trail leading from 
the Forest Office at Kwamkoro, one of which has a 
spectacular view over the Lwengera Valley to the 
West Usambaras. Permission for all these sites, and 
directions to them, should be requested from the 
Tanga Region Catchment Forest Office. In the low- 
lands away from Kisiwani it may be easiest to stay with 
staff of the Kambai Forest Conservation Project or 
camp on Kwamtili Cocoa Estate next to Kwamgumi 
Forest Resetve: 


Food and equipment 

If camping, you will need to take most food with you, 
although there are shops at Amani, Bulwa, Kwamkoro, 
Monga, Bombani, Kisiwani, Bombo Maji Moto, 
Kwemkole, Maramba and Muheza, where basic grocer- 
ies including bread and potatoes can be bought. The 
smalltea rooms in most villages can often serve bread, 
buns and bean stew. Be prepared for cool weather in 
the highlands and sudden heavy rainstorms through- 
out. 


Health 


The lowlands are a very high risk area for malaria and 
both falciparum (the severe, potentially fatal cerebral 
form) and other drug-resistant strains are common. 
The risk is lower but still quite high in montane areas. 
Take precautions against being bitten, including long- 
sleeves and trousers, permethrin-treated mosquito 
nets and a good repellent (the new lemon-smelling 
Mosi-Guard was field-tested here!). Follow the ma- 
laria drug-regime recommended by your doctor. Bear 
in mind that the malaria research station at Amani has 
no facilities for treatment. Bilharzia is another com- 
mon disease in the area, so avoid swimming in still 


Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 


N  ToBomole, Monga 
and Karimjee Estate 


Mbomole 
Hill 
E. 


former ~~ 
IUCN offices 





To Bulwa 


Cischool 


police 
post 


ood paths 
To Muheza 


o explore 


Map 3. Amani 


water where possible. 


The submontane forests 

These are tall and lush, with many epiphytes, mosses 
and lianas and an outstanding diversity of plant spe- 
cies. Groups of the introduced timber-tree .Waesopsis 
eminii, native to Central Africa, can be seen in many 
areas of degraded forest (look for the whitish, mottled 
bark and pinnate leaves). 

Most visitors are likely to start birding in the Amani 
hills; the cool climate and beautiful landscape, a patch- 
Work of tall forest among tea plantations, streams and 
small farms, are a delightful relief from the heat and 
dust of Dar-es-Salaam and the savannas. The best first 
base would be Amani itself, with a useful second 
option being Bulwa or one of the campsites. The 
Amani hills can easily be reached by road from any of 
these so if you have your own transport only one base 
is necessary, you could even base yourself at the new 
guest house in Kisiwani. 

The trail guide available from the Catchment For- 
est Office in Tanga includes probably the best 
all-round selection of walks, designed to give visitors 
a flavour of the scenery, history, biology and human 
use of the area. They are not specifically for birders 
but by following them the visitor should be able to 
find the majority of the area's specialities. Perhaps the 
most rewarding areas are the Amani Botanical Gar- 


Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 


den, the trail leading from Kwamkoro Forest Office, 
and the steep hike from the Nature Reserve HQ at 
Kisiwani into submontane forest, to the ridge-top 
Amani-5igi Forest Reserve. 

The Botanical Garden can be explored around 
the AMRC and Kisiwani. There is also a trail from 
behind the IUCN Amani office (which may soon be 
abandoned) through forest to a spectacular clifftop 
viewpoint at Mbomole Hill, overlooking the forest 
canpy. It is an easy 30-60 min climb — just ask at the 
guest house for directions. The Kwamkoro trail is 
easily found by asking directions to Kwamkoro Forest 
Office (“Misitu Kwamkoro"); it follows an old logging 
road past the front of the office and into the forest. The 
Amani-Sigi trail accesses an area where the transition 
from lowland to submontane can be observed. It 
cannot be followed without a guide at the time of 
writing, but knowledgeable guides can be found at 
Kisiwani who will proceed slowly and quietly for 
birdwatching. The trail guide also includes three driv- 
ing routes, which give a thorough tour of the main 
tracks of the Amani hills, and pass other forest blocks 
which may be worth exploring. 

Many of the East Usambara specialities frequent 
the forest canopy or “edge” habitats such as tree-fall 
gaps and gardens. Many occur in the grounds of the 
AMRC where you can wander more or less at will. 
Often seen here are Amani Anthreptes pallidigaster, 


Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2 — 119 


Banded Green A. rubritorques and Uluguru Violet- 
backed Sunbirds A. neglectus, Green-headed 
Oriole Oriolus chlorocephalus and Southern 
Banded Snake-Eagle Circaetus fasciolatus with its 
distinctive, chicken-like kob-koh-koh-kah-ko call. The 
Uluguru Violet-backed Sunbird is more of an in- 
sectivore than its two relatives and is usually seen 
hunting through low bushes in small parties. The 
Amani and Banded Green Sunbirds prefer higher 
treetops, but they may join commoner species, espe- 
cially Olive Nectarinia olivacea and Collared 
Anthreptes collaris, and also occasionally Scarlet- 
chested Nectarinia senegalensis, Amethyst N. 
amethystina, and Purple-banded Sunbirds N. 
bifasciata, at smaller ornamental flowering trees in 
gardens. 

The AMRC is also the easiest place to find ‘Mom- 
basa’ Woodpecker Campethera abingoni 
mombassica, Moustached Green Tinkerbird 
Pogoniulus leucomystax, and Kenrick’s Poeoptera 
kenricki, Black-bellied Lamprotornis corruscus and 
Waller’s Starlings Onychognathus walleri. Although 
the Centre is in relatively open habitat, the predomi- 
nant drongo there is the Square-tailed Dicrurus 
ludwigii, a forest bird. Fischer's Turaco 7auraco 
fischeriandthe monotonously popping Green Barbet 
Stactolaema olivaceum can also be heard from the 
grounds, although they rarely venture from the sur- 
rounding forest. The forest-canopy Forest Batis Batis 
mixta and the open-country East Coast Batis Batis 
soror occur side-by-side in forest edge habitats at 
Amani, sometimes with flocks of Yellow White-eye 
Zosterops senegalensis. Other commoner species 
around the Centre include Crowned Eagle 
Stephanoaetus coronatus (heard calling high over- 
head almost daily), Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus 
occipitalis, Ayres’s Hawk-Eagle Hieraeetus ayresii, 
Great Sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucos and 
the abundant and noisy White-eared Barbet 
Stactolaema leucotis. Flocks of Silvery-cheeked 
Hornbill Ceratogymna brevis are commonly seen all 
year, while Trumpeter Hornbills C. bucinator only 
reach this altitude during the warmer half of the year. 
Black Saw-wing Psalidoprocne pristoptera is sure to 
be seen flying gracefully overhead or prospecting 
roadside banks. Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx 
cupreusis common; in season, its loud hello geoor-gie 
call can't be missed. 

Other forest specialities are more difficult. They 
include Dappled Mountain Robin, White-chested 
Alethe Alethe fuelleborni, several species of forest 
bulbul, all restricted to the dimly-lit understorey, and 
the owls. The alethe is common throughout and its 


120 — Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2 


loud, monotonous song (like a Mistle Thrush Turdus 
viscivorus) is heard most early mornings, and during 
the day in the wetter seasons, but it is extremely shy. 
The forest robins, including White-starred Robin 
and Sharpe's Akalat Sheppardia sharpei are even 
more difficult, as they have much quieter songs, but 
are less likely to fly long distances if disturbed. Among 
the bulbuls, Stripe-cheeked Andropadus 
milanjensis and Yellow-streaked Phyllastrephus 
flavostriatus are fairly often seen at the forest edge. 
Yellow-streaked draws attention by its frequent 
calls and habit of raising one wing, while the distinc- 
tive ukkeri-ukkeri-ukkeri song of Stripe-cheeked is 
a monotonous feature of the damp seasons. Little 
Greenbuls Andropadus virens burble away almost 
constantly, but can be hard to see. Cabanis's (Olive 
Mountain) Phyllastrephus cabanisi and Shelley's 
Greenbuls Andropadus masukuensis are fairly com- 
mon within the forest, and sometimes seen in 
mixed-flocks at the edge. Grey-backed 
Camaropteras Camaroptera brachyura are com- 
mon, occurring with small numbers of the 
green-backed form. Pale-breasted Illadopsis 
Illadopsis rufipennis is also quite common and can be 
traced by its quiet churring calls. Lemon Dove 
Aplopelia larvata can usually be found when it flushes 
a short distance from the forest floor to sit quietly on 
a low branch, peering at the observer. Eastern 
Bronze-naped Pigeon Columba delegorgueiis more 
difficult, as it usually keeps to the canopy (the call is 
rather like European Woodpigeon Columba 
palumbus), while Olive Pigeons Columba arquatrix 
are scarce but can sometimes be found sitting in the 
open, high in small patches of forest or isolated clumps 
of trees near the western escarpment. African 
Broadbills Smithornis capensis are common but 
elusive except when calling at dawn and dusk. It is 
worth stalking their strange, upward-inflected brrrrUP 
to find the source, since the sound is made during an 
extraordinary display sequence. 

The forest interior prize is the rare Dappled 
Mountain Robin, found only in virtually undis- 
turbed sites. One site where it has been mist-netted 
is the Karimjee estate, and Eddie Williams lured one 
in with a tape on Mbomole Hill”. The other local 
speciality (otherwise found only on the Njesi Plateau 
in Mozambique) is the elusive and extremely rare 
Long-billed Tailorbird Orthotomus moreaui. Its 
song is said to resemble hitting a metal peg with a 
mallet". It was reported by Birdquest from a site at 
the edge of forest belonging to Karimjee Tea Estates, 
although AT is doubtful that the sound-recording is 
of this species. It was also found in the early 1980s 


Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 


where streams emerge from forest along the Amani- 
Monga road, within easy walk of the Research 
Centre, and recently on Mt. Nilo (see below). The call 
recorded by Birdquest was also heard along the 
Amani-Monga road in 1996". 

Commoner birds of the submontane forests, 
although not necessarily easier to find. include the 
Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler Phylloscopus 
ruficapilla, Red-headed Bluebill, Green-backed 
Twinspot Mandingoa nitidula and Red-faced 
Crimsonwing Cryptospiza reichenovii. All keep to 
the lowest levels, often in dense undergrowth near 
the forest edge. The latter three, all estrildid finches, 
may be glimpsed as small groups fly across an open 
space early in the morning or late in the evening. In 
similar areas you may find the uncommon, more 
open-country Yellow-bellied Waxbill Estrilda 
quartinia. Other forest species which should not be 
so difficult include Dark-backed Weaver Ploceus 
bicolor, Bar-tailed Trogon Apaloderma vittatum, 
Olive Woodpecker Dendropicos griseocephalus, 
Grey Cuckoo-shrike Coracina caesia, Black- 
headed Apalis Apalis melanocepbala, Yellowbill 
Ceutbmochares aureus, Black-fronted Bush-Shrike 
and the noisy White-tailed Crested Flycatcher 
Trocbocercus albonotatus, all common members of 
mixed parties. Scaly-throated Honeyguides /ndi- 
cator variegatus endlessly repeat their whining, 
mechanical buzz, and the long call sequence of Barred 
Long-tailed Cuckoo is also often heard, but both are 
very hard to see. 

Kretschmer's Longbill Macrosphenus 
kretschmeri is not likely to be found at Amani. The 
best area in the Amani Hills is along the western 
escarpment, eg at Ndola, where it hides in dense vine 
tangles whilst endlessly repeating its 4-note song, 
which is uncannily like that of the Common Bulbul 
Pycnonotus barbatus. Itis commoner in the lowlands. 

On the tea estates, a selection of open-country 
highland specialities can be found, including the en- 
demic race of Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata 
and Cabanis’s Bunting Emberiza cabanisi, both of 
which sit obligingly on telephone lines, Dark-capped 
Yellow Warbler Chloropeta natalensis and a variety 
of swallows especially at migration times. 


The lowland forests 

The lowlands are much hotter than the Amani hills. 
The forest is naturally lower and there are few epi- 
phytes. Cycads, pandans and, on rocky outcrops, the 
candelabra tree Euphorbia, are striking features of the 
understorey and the very tall, smooth, yellow trunk of 
Sterculia appendiculata is a common sight. These 


forests naturally invite comparison with Arabuko- 
Sokoke’, with which they share specialities such as 
East Coast Akalat and Sokoke Scops Owl. While 
the East Usambaras lack three of Sokoke's star birds 
(Sokoke Pipit Anthus sokokensis, Spotted Ground 
Thrush Zoothera guttata and Clarke's Weaver 
Ploceus golandi), several lowland species which do 
not occur in Sokoke (eg Uluguru Violet-backed 
Sunbird and Kretschmer's Longbill) along with a 
great variety of typically submontane species, among 
them Swynnerton's Robin do occur. In its three 
other far-flung localities this bird occurs only above 
850 m, but in the East Usambaras it has only been 
found below 550 m. 

The most accessible lowland forest, although not 
the best, is in the Kihuhwi-Sigi Forest Reserve strad- 
dling the Amani road near Kisiwani. The 2-3 km 
stretch downhill of the village can easily be birded 
from the main road. There is little traffic, tall trees 
overhang the road on both sides and a couple of paths 
enter the forest, which is very steep and dense, with 
many rocky outcrops. You have another chance here 
to find Southern Banded Snake-Eagle, Fischer's 
Turaco, ‘Mombasa’ Woodpecker, Amani Sunbird, 
Uluguru Violet-backed Sunbird, Kretschmer's 
Longbill and several other species that may have 
been missed higher up. Banded Green Sunbirds 
have been found nesting in a treetop beside the road 
here. There are also many lowland specialists. Little 
Yellow Flycatchers Erytbrocercus bolocblorus pre- 
dominate in many mixed-species flocks, along with 
Blue-mantled Crested Trochocercus cyanomelas 
and Ashy Flycatchers Muscicapa caerulescens, 
Green-backed Woodpeckers Campethera 
cailliauti, Narina Trogons Apaloderma narina, 
Fischer's Greenbuls Phyllastrephus fischeri, Plain- 
backed Sunbirds Anthreptes reichenowi anda dozen 
other species. The sunbird is common, but only 
below 400 m, and can be quite elusive until the 
insistent foi-toi-toi-toi call is learnt. 

Mixed-flocks are also the best place to find 
Southern Hyliota Hyliota australis, here a bird of 
forest and forest-edge, rather than miombo wood- 
land. This isolated race is endemic to the East 
Usambaras (mainly below 400 m) and may be a full 
species. Only one female specimen is known and, 
unlike every other female of the genus, it shares the 
male's coloration. If this is true for the whole popula- 
tion it would probably justify specific status, but 


Observations so far have been inconclusive. Kisiwani 


is one ofthe easiest places to find them feeding quietly 
in the crowns of tall trees, alone or in pairs. 
The long whistle and Mistle Thrush-like rattle of 





Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 


Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2 - 121 


Red-tailed Ant Thrush Neocossyphus rufusare com- 
mon sounds, often announcing that the bird itself is 
about to rocket past. Black-and-white Flycatchers 
Bias musicus are common, especially in forest-edge 
and riverine habitats. Large parties of Chestnut- 
fronted Helmet-shrikes Prionops scopifrons are 
also a feature, clacking their bills like castanets as they 
tumble through the canopy. They may be joined by 
the superficially similar Retz's Helmet-shrike P. 
reizii, though both mainly roam in monospecific flocks. 
The lucky observer may also find Pallid Honeyguide 
Indicator melipbilus, Eastern Honeybird 
Prodotiscus zambesiae, Eastern Bearded Scrub 
Robin Cercotrichas quadrivirgata, Four-coloured 
Bush-shrike Malaconotus quadricolor or Eastern 
Green Tinkerbird Pogoniulus simplex here. Emer- 
ald Cuckoos are quite common, but outnumbered 
by the similar Klaas’s Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas, 
which calls boooee-jiu, boooee-jiu. Bat-like Spinetails 
Neafrapus boebmi sometimes hawk over the canopy, 
as do the commoner Mottled Spinetails 
Telacantbura ussberi. Lead-coloured Flycatchers 
Myioparus plumbeus and Peter's Twinspots 
Hypargos niveoguttatus are common but often hard 
to see. The colourful Red-headed Bluebill (an en- 
demic race) is commoner in the lowlands, but quiet 
and furtive. Half-collared Kingfishers A/cedo 
semilorquata are quite common on wooded streams 
and rivers, with Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle 
maxima and African Finfoot Podica senegalensis 
along the Sigi River itself. 

The principal lowland species which cannot be 
seen in Kisiwani are Swynnerton's Robin, East 
Coast Akalat and Sokoke Scops Owl. The other 
area of lowland accessible by public transport is the 
Forest Reserve on the east slope of Mt. Mtai, a three 
km walk from Maramba (past the school and a water 
tower amongst the coconut plantations, over a wide 
stream and up the hill). A large path leads to the 
summit ridge. Swynnertons' Robin is known on 
this slope. Both. Banded Green Sunbird and 
Usambara Eagle Owl occur on the summit ridge, 
where there is submontane forest. 

The best lowland site is the Kwamgumi-Segoma 
Forest Reserve. These forests escaped the worst log- 
ging, which damaged much of the East Usambaras 
until the 1980s, and are tall, lush and well-structured. 
Densities of many birds are high and the variety of 
species is the greatest of any lowland site thus far 
studied. Access is easiest from the north, via Maramba, 
Churwa and Kwamtili Cocoa Plantation. A road runs 
through the cocoa to the forest edge. It formerly ran 
through the forest, but after a clampdown on illegal 


122 — Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2 


logging in 1992 it has become very overgrown. There 
are a few other paths, including one along the west 
edge near the river, but they can be indistinct and 
hard to follow. 

Swynnerton's Robins and East Coast Akalats 
are common here. The former prefer the least dis- 
turbed patches, where the ground layer is devoid of 
small plants and deeply shaded by several strata of 
trees and shrubs. The latter appear less choosy and 
occur in selectively logged areas. Both are best de- 
tected by their songs and respond well to playback. 
The East Coast Akalat has a high, thin quavering 
song a few seconds in duration. Reasonable views are 
needed to separate it from Sharpe's Akalat which is 
only recorded above 600 m (but may occur lower) 
and has an ochraceous, rather than yellow chest and 
no slaty panel on the wing coverts. Swynnerton's 
Robin has a slow, sweet 3—5 note whistle, first high, 
then low, typically di di du du. Sokoke Scops Owl 
and Usambara Eagle Owl are easy to hear at this site, 
but seeing them is another matter altogether! As well 
as the lowland specialities, some largely submontane 
species, eg Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Waller’s 
Chestnut-wing Starling and Grey Cuckoo-shrike 
are also common here. 

Of the other lowland sites, Mtapwa was once the 
easiest place to see East Coast Akalat and Plain- 
backed Sunbird, but it was being stripped for 
charcoal production in 1992 and may now be unsuit- 
able. It lies a few km from Maramba towards Tanga 
and is visible 100 m south of the main road. Access 
is via a network of footpaths. Semdoe and Kambai 
have some tall forest and many of the best species, 
although Usambara Eagle Owl has not been heard 
at Semdoe. Kambai village is the base for the Kambai 
Forest Conservation Project, which aims to slow the 
clearance and degradation of nearby lowland forests. 
Access is via the road from Muheza, via Bombani and 
Longuza and then along the west bank of the Sigi. 
There is virtually no traffic, and it is a hot, five-hour 
walk to Kambai village from Longuza, the nearest bus 
stop. It may be possible to arrange a lift with the 
project staff. 

Among the many lowland birds to be seen in 
open country are Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax 
angolensis, Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco 
monogrammicus, African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus 
vocifer, African Jacana Actophilornis africanus, 
Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul Andropadus 
importunus, Zanzibar Red Bishop Euplectes 
nigroventris, Purple-banded Sunbird, Kurrichane 
Thrush Turdus libonyanus (here at its northernmost 
limit), Magpie Mannikin Lonchura fringilloides, 


Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 


African Golden Weaver Ploceus subaureus, 
Grosbeak Weaver Amnblyospiza albifrons and, 
intermittently, Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinchis 
leucogaster. Crested Barbet Trachyphonus vaillantii 
has Deen recorded. 


Mt. Nilo 


The mountain is reached via a poorly marked junction 
at Mtoni Bombo. c25 km from Maramba on the main 
road north of the Usambaras. From Mtoni Bombo, a 
road leads south through scrub and woodland along 
the Bombo valley. After passing Bombo Maji Moto, 
you reach Kwemkole and Kizara. from where you can 
walk another one km to Kilanga Ngua. Access to the 
higher parts of Mt. Nilo Forest Reserve can be 
facilitated by contacting the forest guard station at 
Kilanga Ngua. In order to explore this area properly 
you must camp, either on the Lutindi ridge to the 
north-west or the Kilanga ridge to the south-east. 
Kilanga, reached via Kizara, is lower, lusher and an 
easier climb but the terrain is more rugged and it is 
hard to find a suitable stream to camp by. The birds are 
similar on the two ridges and resemble those at Amani, 
with the loss of some lower-altitude species and the 
addition of a few specialities. 

The two-hour hike up a fairly steep, cultivated 
valley side from Kwemkole north-west to Mt. Nilo 
may produce Mountain Buzzard Biieo oropbiliis, 
White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis, Crowned 
Eagle and perhaps an Ayres’s Hawk-Eagle gliding 
overhead, with Black-throated Wattle-eye 
Platysteira peltata and Black-and-white Flycatcher 
in the trees. Southern Hyliota hase been seen at the 
forest edge. A path along a small ridge north-east of 
the last hut in which livestock are kept leads to a 
bracken-dominated glade; the site of a recent, as yet 
unpublished record of Long-billed Tailorbird. 

A well-trodden path heads south-south-west along 
the side of the Hundu valley into lush forest domi- 
nated by the feathery-leaved trees Newtonia 
buchananii and Albizia spp, with an often dense 
understorey of the familiar pot-plant Dracaena. There 
are at least two small streams where you could camp. 

The rare Usambara Weaver was not seen in the 
East Usambaras for over 50 years until its rediscovery 
on Mt. Nilo in 1994. There have been several recent 
records in the Forest Reserve of small groups alone 
or associated with mixed-flocks. They are quite vocal 
but occur at low densities, so finding this species may 
require several days. Other canopy species likely to 
beseen include Amaniand Banded Green Sunbirds. 

In the undergrowth lurk several inconspicuous 
species, including the Spot-throat Modulatrix 


stictigula, which may be found digging quietly through 
litter, although it is best located initially by its high- 
pitched series of whistles. Olive Turdus olivaceus 
and Orange Ground Thrushes Zoothera gurneyi 
also occur, and occasionally visit more open areas. 
They also betray their presence by their melodious, 
far-carrying songs. A recent addition to the East 
Usambara avifauna, although it is common in the 
West Usambaras, is the African Hill Babbler A/cippe 
abyssinica. The otherwise uncommon Oriole-Finch 
Linurgus olivaceus may also be found. Usambara 
Eagle Owl has been heard. Fruiting trees attract 
Bronze-naped and Olive Pigeons, and Kenrick's, 
Waller's Chestnut-winged and Red-winged Star- 
lings Onychognathus morio, while Lemon and 
Tambourine Doves Turtur tynipanistria eat fallen 
fruit. 

Higher, above 1,400 m, the forest near the peak is 
often covered in mist for much of the day. Bird activity 
here is greatest when the sun emerges. Bar-throated 
Apalis Apalis thoracica and, perhaps seasonally, 
White-starred Robins haunt the undergrowth of 
the stunted forest, and Eastern Double-collared 
Sunbird Nectarinia mediocrisis quite common. Tree- 
ferns provide feeding areas for Red-capped Forest- 
Warbler Ortbotomus metopias and the retiring 
Sharpe's Akalat. | 


How to find the nocturnal birds 

Great care should be taken not to disturb nocturnal 
(or indeed any other) birds by repeated use of play- 
back in their territories. Care should also be taken not 
to get lost — all too easy at night. Carry a compass and 
wear stout boots to protect against the risk of snake 
bite 

The most sought-after bird is probably 
Usambara Eagle Owl. Sometimes considered 
conspecific with the West African Fraser's Eagle 
Owl! it is, at least, an incipient species. The far- 
carrying call is a deep, slow, resonant drumming. A 
recording from the Ulugurus is in the National Sound 
Archive (Wildlife Section) in London, UK. In the early 
1990s, one often sat after dark on the main Muheza- 
Amani road at c650 m, near Amani Police Post. 
Despite this, a couple captured in mist-nets, and a 
few young birds found below their nest holes. it 
remains one of the most poorly-known birds in Africa 
and a great prize for any observer. 

SokokeScops Owl has been found in most East 
Usambara forests below 400 m, except Kisiwani. À 
tape is useful to elicit calls (there is a published 
recording"), but an alternative is to whistle the mo- 
notonous boo, hoo, boo call. Birds do not seem to 





Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 


Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2 — 123 


approach playback, so off-the-path stalking is re- 
quired, although they are not shy and will continue to 
call even when caught in the torch beam. They often 
call from the canopy, 10-20 m up, making them 
harder to see than in Arabuko-Sokoke, where densi- 
ties are higher and they call 3-6 m above ground. 

During searches for these two species, you can 
expect to hear African Wood Owl Strix woodfordii. 
On the forest edge or in degraded forest, Spotted 
Bubo africanus and Verreaux's Eagle Owls Bubo 
lacteus also occur. Spotted is rather similar to 
Usambara Eagle Owl but Usambara is more golden- 
brown, has more widely separated bars below and 
deep brown eyes, whilst Spotted is greyer with 
yellow eyes. At a few places in the lowlands Barred 
Owlet Glaucidium capense has been found, and 
they may prove to be quite common. Another low- 
land bird is Fiery-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus 
pectoralis, which makes its good-lord-deliver-us call 
as it flies over both forest and scrub. The authors have 
heard them in September-October in the East 
Usambaras, but they may call in other months. An 
incentive for going out on foggy or drizzly nights is the 
chance of hearing Buff-spotted Flufftail Sarothrura 
elegans. Living in dense undergrowth, often far from 
water, these rails make a deep humming sound like 
the note from a tuning fork, or by blowing over the 
mouth of a bottle. So unlike a bird does this sound that 
local people insist it is the call of a chamaeleon. 
Finally, the elusive Olive Ibis Bostrychia olivacea is 
also active from dusk to dawn, announcing its pres- 
ence with a guttural honking flight call, which is often 
heard, for example, along roads near Amani. 


Other animals and plants 

In the forests, Blue Monkeys (listen for the bird-like 
chick alarm call) and Black-and-White Colobus 
Colobus polycomos are common. The latter areamong 
the most beautiful of all monkeys, and since monkeys 
are not heavily hunted except when raiding crops 
(which colobus do not), they can be watched with 
ease, even along the roads near Kisiwani or around 
Amani. 

Several species of squirrel occur in the forests: 
the grey-mantled Red-legged Sun Squirrel 
Helioscuirus rufobrachium with its very long, faintly- 
banded tail often joins mixed-flocks of insectivorous 
birds. In the lowlands, the all-red Red Bush Squirrel 
Paraxerus palliatus occurs, while higher the rarer 
Tanganyika Mountain Squirrel Funiscuirus lucifer 
can be seen. They are joined on the tree trunks by the 
technicolour Blue-tailed Tree Lizard Holaspis 
guntheri. The best place to look is on medium-sized 
trees with smooth pale bark in direct sunlight - eg by 


124 — Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2 


small clearings — but they can be found on fallen logs 
or even coconut palms. 

The Black-and-rufous Elephant Shrew 
Rbyncbocyon cirnei, like a big dark rat with a red face 
and yellow tail, is most often seen when flushed. A 
stationary observer is sometimes rewarded with pro- 
longed views of them tottering about the leaf litter. 
Banded Mungos mungo, Eastern Dwarf Helogale 
undulata, White-tailed Ichneumia albicauda and 
Marsh Mongooses Herpestes paludinosus are all 
possible. There are also some specimens from Mtai of 
Sokoke Bushy-tailed Mongoose Bdeogale 
crassicauda omnivora, one of the rarest small carni- 
vores in Africa. Other mammals are largely nocturnal 
— Bush Pig Potamochoerus porcus, African Civet 
Viverra civetta, Blotched Genetta tigrina and Com- 
mon Genets G. genetta, Two-spotted Palm Civet 
Nandinia binotata, Eastern Tree Hyrax 
Dendrobyrax validus, duikers and bushbabies. 
Bushbabies come in a range of sizes and recent 
research on calls’ suggests that there may be one large 
species (Garnett's Galago Otolemur garnetti) and 
two newly described small species (Mountain Galago 
Galagoides orinus at higher altitudes and Matundu 
Galago G. udzungwensis lower). Four-toed El- 
ephant Shrews are common and can often be stalked 
and seen by torchlight. 

There is an outstanding reptile and amphibian 
fauna, which is still incompletely known. For exam- 
ple, previously undescribed species of snake and toad 
were found in Kwamgumi in 1992. The treefrogs are 
particularly attractive, and although mainly seen at 
night may be spotted by day, glued to the rubbery 
leaves of understorey plants. Nightwalks are also the 
besttimeto find the endearing pygmy chamaeleons 
Rhampboleon spp, which feed in the leaf litter and 
climb a few inches off the ground to sleep in the tops 
of seedlings. Perfectly camouflaged by day, they turn 
pale yellow when sleeping. Nile Crocodile Crocodilus 
niloticus is common in the Sigi River and occasionally 
kills bathers. There is reportedly one large individual 
in the pond on Kwamtili estate — so dont go 
swimming! 


Other sites nearby 


Mount Tongwe 

Mount Tongwe (not to be confused with the village of 
Tongwe, north of the Muheza-Amani road), is an 
outlier of the East Usambaras, south of the Tanga- 
Muheza road. It holds important Coastal Forest and is 
of historical interest: a tiny summit fort, constructed by 
the Sultan of Zanzibar was visited by both Speke and 
Burton on their journeys into the interior. Tongwe is 


Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 





Mt. Mtai behind Maramba village, East Usambaras (Tom Evans) 





Usambara Eagle Owl Bubo (poensis) vosseleri Mt. Mlinga, East Usambaras (Tom Evans) 
(Laura Watson) 





Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2- 125 


a Forest Reserve, permission to enter should be 
obtained from the Catchment Forest Office at Tanga. 

The *mountain" (it rises to only 648 m) can be 
reached via the Muheza-Pangani road, which leaves 
the main Tanga-Muheza road just west of the Amani 
junction. Fork right after c5 km and after c8 km the 
road enters a sisal estate. Continue south and just after 
emerging from the sisal turn right past a small dam. 
This road brings you almost to the foot of the moun- 
tain, which is clearly visible. 

The forest contains species such as Little Yellow 
Flycatcher, Plain-backed Sunbird and Chestnut- 
fronted Helmet-shrike, but has been little studied 
ornithologically and there is the chance of finding 
something new, possibly even Sokoke Scops Owl or 
Sokoke Pipit. 


Amboni Caves 

This site is known for its extensive limestone cave 
system, but worth visiting also for its attractive, tranquil 
location in a formerly wooded limestone gorge of the 
Mkulumuzi River. The woodland has been reduced to 
scattered remnants on cliffs. However, Black-and- 
white Colobus still occurs, and the river valley is a 
superb birding spot with many of the coastal open- 
country species. Bat-likeSpinetailis virtually guaranteed, 
along with African Golden Weaver. The caves are six 
km from Tanga, four km along the Mombasa road (look 
forthe black and yellow *Amboni Caves" antiquities sign 
on the left), then two km down the side road. After 1.3 
km, the track turns sharp left (another antiquities sign) 
in Kiomoni village. The guardian lives in the village and 
will intercept you or follow you to the caves. For a small 
fee, he will give a guided tour, full of anecdotes (some 
more credible than others). A taxi will take you cheaply 
from Tanga, and wait for your return, or you can catch 
a Maramba bus; ask to be dropped at the junction. 
Bicycles can be hired in Tanga. 


Coastal habitats near Tanga 
There are several spots within reach of Tanga which 
offerthe possibility of seeing waders, including Crab 
Plover Dromas ardeola. South of Tanga Bay the 
shoreline becomes more open, with mudflats at low 
tide. The easiest place to find is Mwambani: walk, 
cycle or take the Pangani bus c6 km south (of Tanga 
bus station) along Pangani Road, looking for a con- 
crete plinth on the left for the defunct Baobab Beach 
hotel. Follow the track, which winds two km through 
coconut plantations, to the coast, following the Baobab 
Beach markers at junctions. You can swim here at 
high tide, and watch waders at low tide. 

Even better, but further afield, are the salt pans, 
mangroves and shore at Moa. You can reach these by 


126 — Bull ABC Vol 4 No2 


bus along the Mombasa road (ask for a bus to 
Horohoro), or by taxi, but without your own trans- 
port will probably have to walk a few km. Moa village 
is easy to find, the turning being 40 km north on the 
Tanga-Mombasa road, just north of Kastam. The salt 
pans of Kibo Match Co are reached by staying on the 
Mombasa road until the right turn to Mkomazi Estates 
(a defunct sisal estate), c2 km after the Moa junction. 
Walk the four km to the pans, following signs if in 
doubt. You will need to ask permission to enter the 
pans, but this will almost certainly be forthcoming if 
you explain your interest. 


West Usambaras 

To reach the highlands, take the bus to Mombo on the 
road to Arusha, from Muheza, Tanga or Dar. From 
here a surfaced side road leads into the mountains, 
with regular buses from Mombo through Soni to 
Lushoto. There is good accommodation at Soni and 
Lushoto, and several Forest Reserves are within a few 
km of both, accessible by local bus. Permission is 
required to enter the reserves (from the office in 
Lushoto or Tanga) but a number of quiet public roads 
pass through some. From Soni, the easiest to reach is 
Ndelemai, which has roads through it. From Lushoto, 
try Shume-Magamba, either on the road north to- 
wards Mlalo or on that north-west to Manolo and 
Shume (on both, drop off the bus at the pass head, c12 
km north of Lushoto, in forest). At Mazumbai, on the 
eastern escarpment, the University of Dar-es-Salaam 
maintains a field station (visitors welcome) and its 
own forest reserve. Mazumbai is reached by local bus 
from Lushoto, via Bumbuli. Finally, at Ambangulu, in 
the south-east corner of the West Usambaras, the tea 
estate protects good forest. Accommodation might be 
arranged by contacting the offices of George 
Williamson and Co in Dar-es-Salaam. Buses from 
Lushoto also go via Bumbuli, but the road is often 
impassable during the rains. 

The West Usambaras reach greater altitudes than 
the East, and have some different vegetation types, 
including tree heath. Therefore true montane species 
may be seen, including Rufous Sparrowhawk 
Accipiter rufiventris, Mountain Buzzard, Cinna- 
mon-chested Bee-eater Merops oreobates, African 
Hill Babbler, Mountain Greenbul Andropadus 
nigriceps, Fülleborn's Black Boubou Laniarius 


fuellebornei and Sharpe's Starling Cinnyricinclus 


sharpii; some of these may be seen in the East 
Usambaras but are more difficult there. The West 
Usambaras are also the only home of the Usambara 
Alethe (reportedly common in the understorey of 
Shume-Magamba Forest Reserve) and there are some 


Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 


interesting species replacements between East and 
West Usambara, eg the turaco in the West Usambaras 
is Hartlaub's Tauraco hartlaubi. Usambara Eagle 
Owl, Usambara Weaver and Banded Green 
Sunbird are known from Mazumbai. 


Mkomazi Game Reserve 

This reserve is rarely visited by tourists, although 
there are two places to stay. Large mammals have 
been severely reduced by recent hunting, but you will 
certainly see antelope, with the possibility of Afri- 
can Elephant Loxodonta africana and others. The 
birds are superb, with a number of species reaching 
their southern limit here including Hartlaub's Bustard 
Eupodotis hartlaubii, Three-streaked Tchagra 
Tchagra jamesi and Pink-breasted Lark Mirafra 
poecilosterna. Pygmy Batis Batis perkeo and North- 
ern Crombec Sylvietta brachyura have recently 
been found. A wide range of dry-country birds can 
easily be seen, including montane species eg 
Verreaux's Eagle Aquila verreauxii, as well as plains- 
dwellers eg Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori. 

To reach the reserve, take the bus from Tanga or Dar 
to Same on the road to Arusha, then a local bus to Kisiwani. 
There are small hotels in Same if an overnight stop is 
necessary. Ask to be dropped at the turning for the reserve 
HQ (which is also the road to “Tony Fitzjohn’s camp”). 
Same has a Rest House (take your own bedding and food; 
cooking facilities available), Tony Fitzjohn’s a camp site 
only (water and pit latrine provided). Both sites are several 
km from the main road, requiring a long walk, which may 
or may not be permitted by the gate staff, or your own 
transport (4WD if wet). 


Pemba Island 
Pemba can be reached by plane from either Dar via 
Zanzibar or direct from Tanga (the low prices make it 
also worth considering chartering a small plane if ina 
party of 3-4), by dhow from Tanga (they sink regu- 
larly), or by twice-weekly (as of mid-1995) passenger 
ferry from Zanzibar or Tanga. In Tanga, bookings can 
be made at Karimjee Travel, on the market square. 
Pemba is rarely visited by tourists. It has four 
endemic species: Pemba Scops Owl Otus 
pembaensis, Pemba Green-Pigeon Treron 
pembaensis, Pemba Sunbird Nectarinia pembae and 
Pemba White-eye Zosterops vaughani, plus several 
other endemic subspecies. Try to reach Ngezi Forest, 
inthe north-west, where all the endemics can be seen. 
Most can also be found in less attractive surroundings 
in the towns. At Ngezi you may be lucky to spot the 
endemic flying fox, Pemba Fruit Bat Pteropus 
pembaensis. Other birds commoner or easier to see 
than on the mainland include sea- and shorebirds, 


Palm-nut Vulture, Dickinson’s Kestrel Falco 
dickinsoni, Brown-headed Parrot Poicephalus 
cryptoxanthus, Madagascar Bee-eater Merops 
superciliosus, Java Sparrow Pada oryzivora (!), 
Grosbeak Weaver and Black-bellied Starling (en- 
demic race). Pemba has been poorly studied by 
ornithologists and almost every visit turns up useful 
new records. A trail map and brochure for Ngezi is 
available from the Forest Office on Pemba. 

There are small hotels in Chake-Chake, Wete and 
Mkoani, from where trips to the north and east coasts 
can be made by hiring a small car with driver: ($15— 
20/day in 1994). Boats can also be hired for snorkelling 
trips, and the reefs off Pemba are truly superb. Ask at 
the hotel in Chake-Chake for Chili, a helpful tourist 
guide who has a boat and Suzuki jeep. 


Records 

Interesting records should be submitted to The Re- 
corder, EANHS Ornithological Sub-Committee, Box 
48019, Nairobi, Kenya, and to the Tanga Region Catch- 
ment Forest Office in Tanga. The authors would also 
appreciate receiving a copy of any trip reports from 
visitors to the area. 


Useful contact addresses 

Tanga Region Catchment Forest Project (for per- 
mission to enter or camp in the forests) PO Box 1449, 
Tanga,Tanzania. Tel: 255 53 43453/46907; Fax: 255 
53 43820. 


Forest Project Officer (currently Mr M. Katigula). East 
Usambaras Catchment Forest Project (for infor- 
mation about the Amani Nature Reserve and enquiries 
about the guest house at Kisiwani) PO Box 5869 
Tanga, Tanzania. Tel: 255 53 43453/43820; Fax: 255 53 
43820; E-mail: usambaraQtwiga.com Offices of both 
the above are beside the second major roundabout 
when entering town from Dar and heading towards 
Mombasa, not far from the Marina Restaurant. 


East Usambara Tea Company (EUTCO) PO Box 
pos TaneasTanzanbax:-25553 45124. 


Amani Medical Research Centre Guest House 
c/o Amani PO, Tanga, Tanzania. 


Kambai Forest Conservation Project, PO Box 
23410, Dar-es-Salaam, Tanzania. Fax: 255 51 150387. 
Kwamtili Cocoa Estate (run by Mrs Jane Thamé. 
offices in Tanga just off the crossroads at the north- 
east corner of the football stadium). 


George Williamson and Co, Kelvin House, Samora 
Avenue, PO Box 2667, Dar-es-Salaam, Tanzania. Tel: 
255950 DIgO Mr B Patel). 





Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 


Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2- 127 





Narina Trogon Apaloderma vittatum (Laura. Watson) Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo Cercococcyx monianus (Laura 
Watson) 








spot-throat. Modtlatrix stictigiila, Ukaguru Mountains, East Coast Akalat Sheppardia gunningi (Rob Timmins) 
central Tazania (Tom Evans) 





128 — Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2 Birding the East Usambaras, Tanzania: Evans et al 





Acknowledgements 

We would like to thank MIL Katigula, Stig Johansson, 
Andy Perkin, Laura Watson and Gillem Sandys- 
Lumsdaine for their helpful comments on this article. 


Y 


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observations in the Udzungwa and Uluguru Moun- 
tains, Central Tanzania. Bull. ABC 3: 96-98. 

9. ICBP 1992. Putting biodiversity on the map: priority 
areas for global conservation, Cambridge, UK: In- 
ternational Council for Bird Preservation. 


b 


10. Marshall, J. T. 1978. Systematics of smaller south 
Asian nightbirds. American Ornithologists Union 
Monograph No. 25: 1-58. 

11. Sclater, W. L. and Moreau, R. E. 1933. Taxonomic and 
field notes on some birds of north-eastern Tangan- 
yika Territory. Part 3. Ibis 13: 1-33. 

12. Seddon, N., Capper, D. R., Ekstrom, J. M., Isherwood, 
I. 5., Muna, R., Pople, R G., Tarimo, E. and Timothy, 
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East Usambara and Nguu Mountains, Northern Tan- 
zania. Bull. ABC 3: 90-95. 

13. Stuart, S. N. 1989. The East Usambara forest avifauna. 
In Hamilton, A. C. and Bensted-Smith, R. (eds) Forest 
Conservation in tbe East Usambara Mountains, Tan- 
zania Gland, Switzerland & Cambridge, UK: Inter- 
national Union for the Conservation of Nature. 

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15. Williams, E. 1996. Usambara Mountains, Tanzania, 
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from ABC sales.] 


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Bull ABC Vol 4 No 2 — 129